Hey it’s us! We are still alive (whew!)

We have been in travel-mode for 3 weeks now, and haven’t had many moments to spare for our rabid readers; so I apologize to all 3 of you 😉

OH so much has happened, I’m pretty sure I could write it all in a novel (which will probably happen in time). Instead I will just start from the top and see how much I can type before my hand starts to get carpel tunnel. So, here goes:

The plan was to sail offshore from North Carolina to Jacksonville, FL in about 4-5 days. We had to get there by Nov 25, for a dentist appointment (I know that sounds crazy), and figured we had plenty of time. I guess we were pretty ambitious in thinking we could pull off our VERY FIRST offshore passage without a hitch. But, just like everything we have done since embarking on sailing adventures, we were WAY OFF.

Day 1: November 13

Day 1 was more like a quarter of a day, since we left so late in the day. It was jarring when we left the marina because it came without warning. We planned to leave on November 10, but were held up with one last boat project (go figure?!?) before we could take off. Once we got the last items delivered in the AM of the 13th, there was nothing left to wait on. Jake decided that NOW was the time (literally). He woke me up from a much needed nap at 3PM to make it under the bridge by low-tide at 3:15. I was still in a complete daze as we started the engine and detached dock lines. Motoring under the bridge was a bit tense but we cleared with maybe 6 inches to spare. WHEW. At this point, everything felt completely crazy. Are we really leaving? Is it that simple?

Because we left so late in the day, the plan was to go only a short distance to setup for launch down the ICW. We only went about 8 miles before settling into an anchorage just off of the channel. Other than some big winds and lots of other boats in the area, it was very uneventful. We dropped the anchor just as the sun was setting. Holy cow we’re doing it again! We were really excited and buzzing with adrenaline for the week to come.

Day 2: November 14

Today we planned to get to Morehead City to run a few errands and then decide if we wanted to head offshore or wait for the next morning. Jake also still needed to climb the mast to install our Windex and VHF antenna (which we pulled down when we got to Oriental, to fit under the bridge).

Breakfast was a very yummy scramble sandwich & fresh fruit with all the fix-ins. Since we weren’t going far, we took our time. It was around 9A when we pulled anchor (all the other boats were long gone). It was a very frigid morning (only about 43 degrees) so we were bundled. But, since we were only going 16 miles today, we weren’t too concerned or in any hurry. The ICW trip was pretty fun and before long, we were pulling into our channel to Morehead. Initially we were going to anchor outside of the town since it was a very tight area, but there was no one else around so we took our chances and headed in. It was a perfectly calm and quiet anchorage, just a few yards from downtown!

Once we dropped the hook, Jake took the dinghy to shore to the dive center where he learned to scuba, to get his tank filled. I tidied up the boat and prepped the gear for mast-climbing. Before long, Jake was back and ready to get to work. We managed to get everything back up on the mast in just about an hour. Jake also raised our signature pirate flag in honor of the big departure!

We chose to wait until the next morning and enjoy ourselves in downtown Morehead City – both of us were hankering for one last meal at Tight Lines (which as the YUMMIEST homemade meatloaf and mac n cheese ever!). It was a fantastic beginning to our voyage and we were feeling hopeful for the next few days to come.

Day 3: November 15

We didn’t really count Days 1 & 2 as the official start of the offshore passage since they were both so short. So TODAY was the REAL Day 1. We left bright and early with the sunrise, so that we could get to the Beaufort Inlet by slack-tide. We guesstimated about 60-90 minutes to get from our anchorage to the inlet. After checking weather, it sounded like we would have some perfect offshore conditions; small waves, decent wind.

Jake prepped our oatmeal breakfast as I motored us out of town. Today was also very cold, so we were bundled from head-to-tow in our sailing bibs and coats. It was really exciting for both of us as we motored past the inlet and Fort Macon, and out into the Atlantic Ocean. What an accomplishment already! Now the real fun (and the unknown) begins!

When planning for offshore, I made a schedule so that Jake and I could take shifts during the passage. We weren’t really sure how it would work, so we started with 3 hours. As soon as we cleared the last channel marker, we decided to start the clock. I was scheduled for the first shift (12P-3P).

We were both so excited and a little scared, so we both stayed on deck. Even though Jake could have gone below to relax, he was too amped. We raised sails but continued to motor since the wind was super light and variable. The water was crystal blue and the sky clear; felt like a great omen!

My shift flew by. Jake took over right at 3P and I decided to head below to try to relax. I really had no idea what to do with myself, since I wasn’t really tired yet (though I figured that was coming). I read some sailing books to occupy my mind. Jake attempted to sail but with crappy wind he made no progress and continued to motor along. During his shift, he made an attempt to setup the auto-helm (sort of like an autopilot). We tested this once before we left and though it was working then, there was nothing happening with it now. No power, no connection, no nothing. NOT GOOD…

Without an auto-helm, we knew we wouldn’t be able to go too far hand-steering alone. Maybe 48 hours? But we didn’t give up hope yet. Jake had a few theories as to why it wasn’t working:
1. The new electrical system caused something to change and power wasn’t getting to the device anymore.
2. The device has corroded wires that need cleaning
3. The device is old and broken
He figured next time we stop, he could spend some time trying to troubleshoot it. Now it looked like we were not going to be completing our offshore adventure, but we still wanted to see how far we could get!

Time started to slow as the sun set. I went above to watch the scenery transform from day-to-night and took the next shift (6P-9P). It was really exciting and a little scary. This was our very first night-cruising experience and offshore none-the-less. The conditions were prime for some great sailing, and we cut the motor for several hours, enjoying the sounds of the ocean.

Jake whipped up all the food since my shifts overlapped our designated meal-times. Lunch was very simple; sandwiches and chips. Dinner was dehydrated meals. It sounds boring, but in truth it was delicious. We wanted to keep things very simple for our first day. So far so good – neither of us felt any seasickness.

The night shifts were a bit more of a struggle. It became hard to concentrate on steering the boat. There was very little visual stimulation, other than following the compass. We kept the GPS on night-mode, so that it wouldn’t hinder night-vision, but the path was pretty clear. So we turned it off for a bit and steered by compass alone.

When the moon and stars came out, it was gorgeous. My shift was cloudy, so I didn’t see too many, but at around 10P, Jake’s skies were crystal clear and sparkling. The wind also died, so he turned on the engine, and we continued to motor-sail while I tried to rest below. Sleep wouldn’t come until 30 minutes before my midnight shift rolled around.

Day 4: November 16

When I came back up on deck, I was actually pretty excited, though slightly tired. The stars were gorgeous. It felt almost magical! I decided to put on some fun girly music that I could sing to and let the night sky take over my imagination. I even saw some dolphins jumping along next to the boat – even more special at nighttime.

As 3A rolled around, I was looking forward to taking the break. Sleepiness definitely started to kick in and I was really cold. Jake came up a little early, and though he was tired, he seemed in good spirits. He also decided that he wanted to try doing some sailing, since the wind picked up, so he turned off the engine and let the boat do its thing. It was very pleasant (and finally quiet), so I managed to fall asleep around 4:30A.

I had a weird dream. There was an earthquake. Everything was being tossed all over my head and someone was yelling at me for help. But I was frozen and couldn’t move.

We had been making some really good progress. Almost 90 miles by the time we reached Cape Fear. As we rounded the cape, the boat rocketed off in a big wind-gust. Waves also got much larger and choppier, which we weren’t expecting.

Jake called me on the walkie talkie to get me to help him. Things were really crazy. The boat was lurching violently from side-toside and the sails were all over the place. He was struggling to get everything back under control and I slept through the entire thing. I was completely dead to the world.

Some time later, my watch started buzzing. I was convinced it was in my dream, and was going off for probably 10 or 15 minutes before I came back to consciousness. I realized that the boat was rocking around a lot more than before. It was difficult to pull myself out of bed and into my warm gear.

I made my way above deck to a very frustrated and grouchy Jake. He was mad because the boat was going crazy and I didn’t come to help him – I had NO CLUE. My dream came back to me, maybe it wasn’t a dream and the earthquake was the boat? How silly. It only took about 30 seconds to set everything right (sail-trim) so that it was manageable, and then Jake left me with the helm so he could go below and try to get some sleep.

The conditions were a lot more extreme than I thought I was ready for. It was difficult to sail the boat comfortably with waves hitting us directly abeam (from the side). It would cause the boat to lurch in crazy motions that seemed like a lot of strain to the rigging and sails. By now, it was still dark, but the sky was lightening up. Normally I would have played music or something to distract my mind, but I was too tired to care. Instead, I found listening to the sound of the ocean and the boat sailing was pleasant and peaceful. Sunrise was at 6:30A, and it was beautiful. I felt groggy and sleepy, but otherwise not too bad.

This was the first time that I was left sailing Bosco all by myself. Jake has sailed her many-a-time solo, but I haven’t had the pleasure. Despite my sleep deprivation, I managed to find a rhythm with the choppy waves and motion of the boat. Steering up one wave and down another was not easy, but it was hypnotizing. Almost like meditation:

Every 4 seconds there was a wave set, the first and second large, the third larger and the fourth much smaller. I would sail down the big waves with the wind at about 130 degrees off the bow, which would cradle the sails and rigging (so it wouldn’t pound or strain), as each wave would softly break right under the hull. Then there would be a 4 second lull where the water and waves were calm and the boat would charge forward. Then repeat…for 3 hours. It was a really unique experience. Time passed but stood still at the same time. I was really happy in that moment.

Jake’s experience was not so great. Below decks are a lot more uncomfortable when the boat is thrown up and down waves that hit from the beam (side). Every time he was about to fall asleep, there would be a huge wave that threw him awake. Eventually he passed out from sheer exhaustion. Too bad it was only 45 minutes before his next shift!

It was a little after 9A when Jake came back up, and he was not a happy camper. He was so exhausted he struggled to do much of anything. His mood was also pretty bad and he decided at that moment that we needed a new course of action.

By this time we had been moving for about 24 hours straight. Hand steering for that long can be mind-numbing. But the worst is the lack of sleep. Now I know that I probably could have lasted another 24 hours without a huge issue, but Jake probably couldn’t. He needed real sleep and a real break. Unfortunately the closest inlet was still about 40 miles away – which would take us all day.

So we changed course and headed due-west, to the first and closest inlet. We figured we would be able to pull in around mid-afternoon if conditions held. It would give us plenty of light to reach an anchorage and plan the next move.

After that, Jake was motivated to get there fast. It seemed, that Bosco was as well, because we were FLYING. The sailing was absolutely perfect. Winds were at 10-15 knots and though the waves were choppy, they weren’t as bad as earlier in the day.

At some point, we were visited by two separate pods of dolphins, about 30 minutes apart. They came out of nowhere and started playing all around the boat. I grabbed the video camera and got some great footage of them. They were so cool – swimming and jumping all around us. They were swim under the boat and back, riding alongside us. I could have reached out and touched a few of them, they were so close. We also got ourselves a hitchhiking bird for a few minutes. Love these animal visitors! They are definitely going in the Emotional Bank Account!

As we neared the shore, we noticed that our fuel gauge was looking a little low. We decided to heave-to and attempt to re-fuel. We probably had enough to get us to shore, but we didn’t want to take any chances. It was a little challenging, but really we had no issue. At that point, we decided to start the engine up and motor the rest of the way in, since we were only 4 miles from the inlet.

As we neared the shoreline, the engine started to waver. We both looked at each other and rolled our eyes. A few minutes later, it puttered out. Yes, you heard me correctly, the BRAND NEW ENGINE died! Are you kidding me?!?

We went right into work-mode and opened her up. We knew it could only be a couple of things, and went straight to work. Our first suspicion was that the fuel tank still had some bacteria in it, and as we had been rocking and rolling all morning, much of that bacteria probably clogged the fuel filter.

We had plenty of spare filters but realized quickly that we had no strap wrench large enough to get it off. Manual power wasn’t working, so we knew we had to wait. So, Jake emptied the bowl at the bottom of the filter to hopefully buy us some time. And it worked. We got the engine started and finished motoring the rest of the way. It felt like eternity, but was really only about an hour, when we got through the inlet and dropped the hook in the closest anchorage, just a few miles north of Myrtle Beach, SC. There was a lot of current running through, but otherwise it was perfectly protected.

Once at anchor, we wasted no time getting to work on the engine. Jake had to use some MacGyver techniques to change the fuel filter, but he got it done (and in under 2 hours!) We also topped off the fuel, cleaned up the boat for the next day’s journey and made a yummy feast that left us full and tired.

Afterwards, we were completely wrecked. 36-straight hours of hand-steering is no joke, even for 2 people. We did manage to make amazing progress offshore, slightly under 150 miles (not including Day 1 & 2). But now, we were pretty much done. As soon as heads hit pillows, we were out. It was not even 7P and we were sleeping. But we had an early wake up call (4A) with another long offshore passage (50 miles), hopefully arriving in Georgetown, SC before day’s end.

TO BE CONTINUED…