On the banks of the canal from Nantes to Brest, the Cistercian abbey of Bon-Repos showcases an event that brings everyone young and old out to celebrate. For 30 years and counting, the Abbey and surrounding 2-hecacres transforms into a live-theater, retracing the history of Central Brittany. Imagine thousands of costumes, sets and accessories, tanks, trolleys, carts and carriages, 350 extras, farm animal-extras, trained horses, haunting music and a spectacular light show with pyrotechnic effects.

Its a journey on the edge of time where history is forged every moment called Le Son & Lumière de Bon-Repos

Jake and I were not in Brittany long when we learned about this event. Its a big deal and draws over 12,000 people a year. There are only 9 or 10 shows in total and it only occurs during a 3-week period in late Summer, early Autumn. We chose the show based on the best chances of good weather, which only happened to be 2 of the 9 days. I chose it based on the seat availability – since you can reserve ahead of time, and made sure to get us front-row!

There is a big festival in the nearby village of Conomer with live music, loads of food, dancing, fair-activities and such, before the start of the show. We packed loads of post-dinner snacks including homemade brownies, a bag of cashews and a thermos of soup in case its chilly, which it is almost guaranteed to do. And since we didn’t have many warm clothes, we brought blankets, pillows (for our bums) and extra coats, hats and gloves. The show doesn’t start until sunset (which is 10:30PM) and lasts over 2 hours. So far its been pretty chilly at night, so best to be prepared.

We left around 6PM for Conomor which is right next to lac de Guerledan, to which we have ventured a few times. I was surprised that we never saw any traffic until we were just across from the entrance and we spotted someone in a high-vis vest directing cars into a massive field. The guy tried to explain to us something in French, I had no clue and Jake just said “oui” a lot and then we just followed the car in front of us. Since we’re pretty much right at the back I imagine that it will take us ages to escape, but we won’t worry about that right now. We made it!

After donning all our gear, we followed the others toward the sound of music and the smells of cooking meat…YUM. We aren’t quite brave enough to order food yet, but its only a matter of time. We sat and enjoyed the live music, it was a 2-piece band which reminded me of Jake and I when we used to play at festivals. Since there weren’t a ton of people yet, it was pleasant to just sit and soak it in, as if we are one of the French!

It is still early so we took a walk around towards the Abbey and surrounding shops. There was a room full of geodes and other fun and interesting relics, though all the signs were in French, we enjoyed exploring a bit. As we headed back to the music, there was a large gathering of people dressed in costume and a Gaelic / Keltic band that started to play. We found good seats on a bench and watched as they performed their dance in the street and then on the small stage, which lasted for about an hour. In-between music the performers would either sing or talk about what they were doing, what they were wearing and I assume the history of the performance this evening. We didn’t understand most of it yet figured out the general idea of what was happening. Once in awhile we’d actually understand some French, which was SO COOL. This is one of the best parts of being here, completely immersed in a world that is so different and yet not so different than our own.

When 9PM rolled around we meandered away from the village toward the big set, along the bank of the Nantes Brest where a few other people were already lining up. We opted to hang around with those early birds, since we want to get a good seat and also hopefully have no issues. It was fun to people watch, loads of families and kids running around, we spotted a few of the farm animals that were going to be in the show, some mini-horses and a cow that wouldn’t stop mooing.

Once they let us in, we had to go to the very far end but at least we were in the VERY FRONT ROW, and corner, so no one should block our view. The seats were a little odd, they are pretty small and connected at the base so any small movement would affect half the row. I’m so glad we brought pillows to sit on!

By 1030PM, it was dark and the place was packed.

The two main characters are Fanch and Yffig (say it like FAUNCH AND EE-FEEG). They are fisherman and longtime friends, both very silly and argumentative. One day they were fishing and accidentally caught something that turned out to be a giant stone which emptied the lake. The stone is called “Grand Thua” who is the soul of Bon-repos, and comes out of his millennial sleep. To repair this accident and find the broken element, Lady Luciole, guardian of the sleeping lake, encourages Fanch and Yffig to conduct a quest through the ages which transports them from one era to another.

Each scene explores different places in time that are significant to the history of Bon Repos Abbey (from 56BC through to the late 1900s).

Scene 1: The Romans (56 BC)
We are in the year 56 BC After defeating the rebellion Venetes on sea, the Roman legions invade Armorica. A crossing that takes place in pain.

Scene 2: The market (13th century)
Alain III died in 1195. His son Alain IV succeeded him and continued what his father had begun about Bon-Repos. The monks establish a fair, the right of which is granted by Alain IV de Rohan in 1204. In Bon-Repos abundance arrives quickly and the monastery will benefit from a considerable boom.

Scene 3: Conomor: The Breton Bluebeard (6th century)
In 520, Conomor, a little lord confined to the Poher, dreams of power and glory. The assassination of Trephine, his last wife, will lead the tyrant to ruin.

Scene 4: The Red Beanies (17th century)
June 1675. The people do not accept Colbert’s reforms. After having started in Rennes, the revolt of the Good Reds ignites all Brittany.

Scene 5: The Sunken Valley (1930)
Under construction since 1923, the Guerlédan hydroelectric dam was inaugurated on October 12, 1930. 55 million cubic meters of water gradually engulfed the valley.

Scene 6: The Dream (12th century)
Exhausted by a furious hunt, Viscount Allain III falls asleep under the foliage at the edge of the Quénécan forest. The Virgin appears to him. She asks him to build an abbey on the same place where he fell asleep.

Scene 7: Alain IV de Rohan and the Third Crusade (11th century)
On October 29, 1187, Pope Gregory VIII proclaimed the Third Crusade. Alain IV de Rohan volunteers to deliver the tomb of Christ fallen in the hands of the Turks.

Scene 8: Saint Geniès (17th century)
After a succession of abbots, the old monastery falls into ruin. We must wait for the arrival in 1683 of Philippe Alexandre Montault Navailles Saint Geniès who decides to settle and live in Bon-Repos. He believes that the premises of the moutier are unworthy of his person. He will, for reasons of prestige, build new buildings.

Scene 9: The Revolution + Final
Attack of the Chouans (1791), torchlight descent.

The show was entirely in French, but the performance was such taht we could actually understand a good chunk of it just by acting. Plus the lights and pyrotechnics, horse jousting and other such things were so cool. We could even laugh along at some of the jokes even though we really didn’t understand them. The coolest thing about this is that its the community in and near this area that puts on this entire performance. Its handed down from generation so children who were in it are now adults and their families participate. That’s one of the requirements for anyone who finds themselves acting in Bon-repos is that they have to be from the area.

It was only in the mid-40’s by night and I was so thankful we had all of these layers. I was still pretty cold but it was a completely calm night, no wind. At some points we were in total darkness and the night sky finally showed TONS of stars. This is actually the first time we’ve seen the night sky since normally we’re fast asleep before it gets dark enough to enjoy them.

By the very end of the show, there was a huge moving tribute to everyone who performed and then a Bon Repos Dance party where everyone was singing and cheering and it was so much fun. We joined in the dancing before the lights came back on and everyone filed out.

Now the real fun begins, we are probably as far away from our car as anyone could be, and knowing that its so packed, we didn’t rush to get back. It took us almost 45 minutes to actually get to and find the car, and yes it was a madhouse. We ended up sitting around waiting for cars to clear for another 40 minutes until we could finally escape and make our way back home by 2AM…our latest…or earliest night in France, so far!